Dominguez and
Escalante Journal
Source:
Chavez, A. & Waner,
T. (1995) The Dominguez and Escalante Journal,
University of Utah Press, SLC, UT
Disclaimer:
Educational Material / Non-Commercial
August 6
In the afternoon we left the camp of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves,
going downstream toward the west, and having traveled two and
one-half leagues over bad terrain, we camped on the bank of the
river.$ Don Bernardo Miera had been having stomach trouble, and this
afternoon he became much worse, but God willed that before day-break
next morning he should be improved, so that we might continue on our
way. - Today two leagues and a half.
August 7
We continued a little more than a league to the west along the bank
of the river and on the slopes of the adjacent mesas, climbed a
somewhat difficult hill, swung northwest, and after going one more
league arrived at another river which they call Rio de la Piedra
Parada, at a point very close to its junction with the Navaj6. Here
there is a large meadow which we called San Antonio. It has very
good land for crops, with opportunities for irrigation and
everything else necessary for a settlementfirewood, stone, timber,
and pasturage, all close at hand. This river rises to the north of
the San Juan in the same Sierra de la Grulla, runs from north to
south, and is a little smaller than the Chama River where it passes
through the pueblo of Abiquiú. Having crossed this river we traveled
west two leagues and somewhat over two more leagues to the
west-northwest, and arrived at the east bank of the river which they
call Rio de los Pinos, because some pines grow on its banks. It has
very good water, is a little smaller than the Rio del Norte, runs
through here from north to south, enters the Navaj6 River, and rises
in the Sierra de la Grulla near its western extremity, where they
call it Sierra de la Plata. Here there is a large meadow with very
abundant pasturage, especially of grama-grass, extensive and good
lands for raising crops by irrigation, and everything else that
might be desired for a good settlement. We camped in the meadow,
naming it the Vega de San Cayetano - Today a little more than six
leagues.
August 8
We set out from the Rio de los Pinos and the Vega de San Cayetano
toward the west-northwest, and having traveled four leagues we
arrived at the Rio Florido, which is medium-sized and smaller than
the Rio de los Pinos. It rises in the same sierra but farther west.
It flows in the same direction, from north to south, and where we
crossed it there is a large meadow of good land for crops with
facilities for irrigation. The pastures in the meadow were good, but
not those in the immediate vicinity, although it evidently has them
in wet years. Having crossed the Rio Florido we traveled west two
leagues and west-northwest somewhat over two leagues more. We then
descended a stony but not very long slope and arrived at Rio de las
Animas near the western point of the Sierra de la Plata, in which it
rises. Crossing it, we camped on the opposite bank. This river is as
large as the Rio del Norte, carries somewhat more water at this
point, and is more rapid because here the current has a greater
fall. It runs from north to south, and like the foregoing rivers it
enters the Navajó. Along here it runs in a canyon, but farther down
they say it has good meadows. - Today eight leagues or a little
more. Here there is no good pasturage, but there is some a little
farther on.
August 9
We left the Rio de las Animas, climbed the west bank of the river
which, although it is not very high, is quite difficult because it
is very stony and in places very rugged. We went through the small
forest at the top, which must extend a little more than a quarter of
a league. Then we entered a valley with abundant pasturage, traveled
through it a league to the west, turned west by northwest, and after
going three leagues through a leafy forest and good pastures, we
arrived at the Rio de San Joaquin, otherwise called Rio de la Plata,
which is small, about like the river which runs through the pueblo
of San Gerónimo de los Taos. It rises in the same west end of the
Sierra de la Plata and flows through the canyon in which they say
there are veins and outcroppings of metal2. But, although years ago
several persons came from New Mexico to examine them by order of the
Governor, who then was Don Tomás Vélez Cachupin, and carried away
ore, it was not learned with certainty what metal it was. The
opinion formed previously by some persons from the accounts of
various Indians and of some citizens of this kingdom that they were
silver mines, caused the mountain to be called Sierra de la Plata.
From the bank of Rio de las Animas to this Rio de San Joaquin the
land is very moist, for, because of the nearness of the sierra it
rains very frequently. For this reason, in the forest, which
consists of very tall straight pines, small oaks and several kinds
of wild fruits, as well as in its valleys, there are the finest of
pastures. The climate here is excessively cold even in the months of
July and August. Among the fruits there is a little one, black in
color, of agreeable taste and very much like the medlar, although
not so sweet. We did not go forward today because, since the animals
did not eat well last night they were somewhat weak when they
arrived, and also because a heavy and prolonged shower forced us to
halt. - Today four and a quarter leagues, almost all to the west.
August 10
Father Fray Francisco Atanasio awoke troubled by a rheumatic fever
which he had felt in his face and head since the day before, and it
was desirable that we make camp here until he should be better, but
the continuous rains, the inclemency of the weather, and the great
dampness of the place forced us to leave it. Going north, and having
traveled a little more than half a league, we turned to the
northwest, went on a league and then swung west through valleys of
very beautiful timber and abundant pasturage, roses, and various
other flowers. After going two leagues we were again caught in a
very heavy rain, Father Fray Francisco Atanasio became worse and the
road impassable, and so, having traveled with great difficulty two
more leagues to the west, we had to camp on the bank of the first of
the two little rivers which form the San Lázaro, otherwise called
Rio de los Mancos. The pasturage continues in great abundance. -
Today four and a half leagues.
August 11
Notwithstanding the severe cold and the dampness from which we
suffered, we were not able to move our camp because Father Fray
Francisco Atanasio awoke very weak from the trouble mentioned and
with some fever. For this reason we were not able to go to see the
veins and metallic stones of the sierra, although they were nearby,
as we were assured by a companion who had seen them on another
occasion.
August 12
Father Fray Francisco Atanasio awoke somewhat improved, and in order
to change terrain and climate rather than to make progress, we set
out from the camp and Rio de San Lázaro toward the northwest. We
traveled a little more than a league, swung west by west-northwest,
and went five leagues through leafy forests and good pastures. Then
we turned west, traveled two and a half leagues through a chamise
thicket with little pasturage, went a quarter of a league to the
north, crossed Rio de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores, and camped on
its north bank. This river rises on the north slope of the Sierra de
la Plata, and runs southwest to this place, where it makes a sharp
turn. It is a little smaller than the Rio del Norte in this season.
- Today a little more than eight and a half leagues.
August 13
We remained in camp, partly so that the Father might improve a
little and be able to go forward, and partly to observe the latitude
of this site and meadow of the Rio de los Dolores where we were. An
observation was made by the sun and we found we were in 38° and 13
1/2' north latitude. Here there is everything needed for the
establishment and maintenance of a good settlement in the way of
irrigable lands, pastures, timber and firewood. On an elevation on
the south bank of the river in ancient times there was a small
settlement of the same form as those of the Indians of New Mexico,
as is shown by the ruins which we purposely examined. Father Fray
Francisco Atanasio felt better, and we decided to continue our
journey next day.
August 14
We set out from the meadow and river of Dolores toward the north,
and having traveled a quarter of a league we turned northwest for a
league, and northwest by west five leagues through a somewhat
difficult chamise thicket. We then entered a deep and broken canyon,
and having traveled in it two leagues to the north, we arrived a
second time at the Rio de los Dolores, which here runs northwest. We
crossed it twice within a short distance and camped on the west
bank, naming the place, which is a small meadow of good pasturage,
La Asunción de Nuestra Señora. This afternoon we were overtaken by a
coyote and a genizaro3 of Abiquiú, the first named Felipe and the
second Juan Domingo. In order to wander among the heathen, they had
fled from that pueblo without the permission of their superiors,
protesting that they wished to accompany us. We did not need them,
but to prevent the mischief which either through ignorance or malice
they might commit by traveling alone any longer among the Yutas if
we tried to send them back, we accepted them as companions. - Today
eight and a quarter leagues.
August 15
We left the camp of La Asunción (on the Rio de los Dolores) through
a somewhat rough and stony canyon, along which we traveled a fourth
of a league to the west-northwest. We then turned northwest, and
having traveled a little less than a league and a half, we swung
north-northwest and went a little more than three leagues through a
chamise thicket on good and al- most level land. We then turned
northwest a league, and having traveled two and a half more to the
west, by the trail which is farthest from the river of the two
trails into which the one we followed from La Asunción is divided,
we halted for siesta at an arroyo which the guides thought had
water, though we found it entirely dry. Since we did not know
whether by this route there would be another adequate water hole at
a suitable distance for reaching it today, we sent men to explore
the ground we would have to cover this afternoon. A water hole was
found, but with so little water that although it sufficed for the
men, it would not provide for the animals. It is permanent water but
not very palatable. It was covered with stones and logs, apparently
on purpose. Perhaps this was done by the Yutas because of some mis-
fortune they had suffered at this place, for, according to what was
told us by some of the companions who have been among them, they are
accustomed to do this in such cases. In the afternon we went on, and
having traveled two leagues northwest and half a league north we
arrived at this water hole, which we called the Agua Tapada [Covered
Pool]. - Today nine and three quarter leagues.
August 16
More than half of our animals were missing for, since they had not
had any water, they strayed away looking for it, and found it near
the road in the middle of yesterday's march. Finally they appeared,
arriving when it was already late, and for this reason we did not
leave Agua Tapada until half past ten in the morning. We took a
little-used trail which we thought would take us once more to the
Rio de los Dolores, which we planned to follow. But, having traveled
along it two leagues northwest and a league and a half west it
played out, because the soil was very loose and the trail had been
washed out by the rains. From here we proceeded northwest. After
going a quarter of a league we entered a canyon which at first was
wide and in which we found a much-used trail. We followed it, and
having traveled another fourth of a league to the north, we found a
water hole which to us appeared to be sufficient for both men and
animals; and because it was on the east side of the trail and hidden
in a dense grove of piñon and juniper, we called it Agua Escondida.
More specific directions to this water hole are not given because
the trail goes right to it. Two wells were made so the animals might
drink, and all did so, although not with very great satisfaction.
While we reconnoitered the terrain on both sides in order to
continue this afternoon, Don Bernardo Miera4 went on alone through
this canyon without our seeing him. Because of the impossibility of
continuing the journey we stopped and sent another companion to tell
him to return before he got lost. But he got so far ahead that they
did not return until after midnight to the place where the rest of
us were waiting, greatly worried on account of their tardiness. They
said that going through the canyon they had reached the Rio de los
Dolores, and that on the way there was only one short stretch that
was difficult to get through, and that it could be improved.
Therefore we decided to continue through it next day. - Today four
leagues.
August 17
We set out from Agua Escondida, and about half past three in the
afternoon came for a third time to the Rio de los Dolores, having
traveled all the way through the canyon and its many turns, and
going seven leagues to the north, although, by a straight line it
would be four or five at most. Because of the varied and agreeable
appearance of the rocks on either side which, being so high and
rugged at the turns, make it appear that the farther one goes the
more difficult it is to get out, and because Don Bernardo Miera was
the first one who traveled it, we called this canyon Laberinto de
Miera [Miera's Labyrinth]. It is everywhere passable and not very
difficult for the animals, excepting one place which can be easily
improved. On reaching the river we saw very recent tracks of Yutas.
For this reason we thought one of their rancherias must be nearby,
and that if they had seen us and we did not seek them they might
fear some harm from us and be alarmed. Moreover, since we hoped that
some one of them might guide us or give us information, enabling us
to continue our journey with less difficulty and labor than we were
now suffering because none of the companions knew the water holes
and the terrain ahead, we decided to seek them. As soon as we halted
in a bend of the river which we called San Bernardo," Father Fray
Francisco Atanasio set forth, accompanied by the interpreter Andrés
Muñiz and Don Juan Pedro Cisneros. Following the tracks upstream
about three leagues, they learned that the Indians were Yutas
Tabehuaches, but they were not able to find them, although they went
clear to the place where the little Rio de las Paraliticas empties
into the Dolores. They say this Rio de las Paraliticas is so called
because the first of our people who saw it found in a rancheria on
its bank three Yuta women suffering from paralysis. It divides the
Yutas Tabehuaches from the Muhuaches, the latter living to the
south, and the others to the north. - Today seven leagues, which by
a direct line would be four to the north.
August 18
Very early in the morning two companions went to find a way by which
we could leave the bed of the river, which here has high and very
stony mesas on both sides. and which would neither take us off our
northerly course nor out of the way for lack of water and pasturage.
But it was impossible to learn where we might proceed except by the
bed of the river in which, on account of the many stones and because
it was necessary to cross it many times, we feared the animals would
bruise their feet. Leaving the bend of San Bernardo we traveled
downstream a league to the north and camped, in order that the
companions might go to explore farther than they had gone this
morning. About eight o'clock at night they returned saying that only
by the bed of the river would we be able to emerge from this
impassable network of mesas and that only with difficulty. Therefore
we decided to continue by the bed of the river. - Today a league to
the north.
August 19
We continued downstream and having traveled, with no little
difficulty, a league to the northeast and another to the northwest,
we halted at another bend of the river in order that, after letting
the animals drink, we might be able to leave the stream and follow a
trail which ran to the northeast, from here following the river
toward the north if perchance the roughness of the terrain would
permit us to do so. Meanwhile one of the companions went to find out
if the trail were passable as far as the chain of high and stony
mesas by which we hoped to cross, because the bed of the river was
now impassable. He found that the trail did not run through passable
terrain in the mentioned direction of northwest. Another trail or
path was found going southwest but, although it was examined for a
long distance, in the course of which it had no obstacles, we did
not dare follow it because beyond the part of it examined we could
see high mesas I and deep canyons in which we might again be
surrounded and find ourselves forced to turn back. Moreover, the
great aridity of the surrounding district we had seen caused us to
believe that the pools of rain-water and even the springs of running
water which hereabouts might be encountered would be totally dry. We
conferred with the companions who had traveled through this region
as to what direction we might take to avoid these obstacles, and
everyone had a different opinion. So, finding ourselves in this
state of confusion, not knowing whether we should be able to follow
the trail mentioned, or whether it would be better for us to go back
a short distance and ;take the road that goes to the Yutas
Sabuaganas, we put our trust in God and our will in that of His Most
Holy Majesty. And, having implored the intercession of our Most Holy
Patrons in order that God might direct us in the way that would be
most conducive to His Holy Service, we cast lots between the two
roads and drew the one leading to the Sabuaganas, which we decided
to follow until we reached them. In this place, which we called the
Cajón del Yeso because there was gypsum in a mesa nearby, we
observed the latitude by the sun and found it to be 39° 6'. - Today
two leagues.
August 20
We left the Cajón del Yeso, going back a league to the southeast,
and again crossed the river to the east-northeast of which, in some
hills about a quarter of a league away, we saw mines of transparent
and very good gypsum. Having crossed the river, we entered a wide
valley and traveled three leagues to the east-northeast by a very
well beaten trail which runs along the foot of a high mesa. Then, at
the urging of Don Bernardo Miera, who did not wish to follow this
road, the interpreter, Andrés, led us up a very high and rugged hill
having so many stones that we expected to be forced to go back when
half-way up, because it was so hard on the animals that many of them
left their tracks on the stones with the blood from their feet. We
climbed it with tremendous difficulty, and at the end of several
hours, had traveled north about a quarter of a league in the ascent.
On the top we now traveled a mile to the northwest, and from here we
saw that the road ran along the bottom of this mesa over good and
entirely level terrain. In the descent, which is gradual and without
stones, we traveled more than three-quarters of a league to the
north, then continued a little more than a league northeast through
a chamise thicket where there was much small cactus. In order to
avoid the hardship which this caused the animals we entered the bed
of an arroyo, and having traveled along it a league to the east we
came unexpectedly to a large pond of good water. This pond is formed
by rainwater and the flow of a small spring which we called Fuente
de San Bernabe. Judging from the trails and the ruins of huts, this
is a camping place of the Yutas, and the road which we left to climb
the impassable hill mentioned leads right to it. Here we camped 20
although the pasturage is not very abundant, having traveled six
leagues today (not counting the distance we retraced).
August 21
We set out from the water-hole of San Bernabé along the canyon, in
the southern end of which it is situated, and traveled four leagues
to the north over not very good terrain which had some difficult
stretches. In the middle of the canyon there are some good pools of
water, and almost at the end of it for a fourth of a league there is
as much water as would run from a fair-sized spring. Having left
this canyon we went a league or a little less to the northwest
through a level chamise thicket. We entered another canyon with as
bad a road as the previous one, and having traveled on it a long
league to the north we arrived at the Rio de San Pedro and camped in
a small meadow which is here, naming the campsite San Luis. - Today
six leagues.
August 22
We left the camp of San Luis, crossed the river, ascended a very
high and rugged but not very stony slope and reached a wide mesa
which looks like a remnant of the Sierra de los Tabehuaches. We
traveled along it to the northeast for two leagues, east-northeast
more than half a league, east-southeast another half league, and
then went down from the mesa by another rugged but short slope. It
is the one which Don Juan Maria de Rivera in his diary describes as
being very difficult. Then along the banks of the Rio de San Pedro
we traveled (upstream) a league toward the northeast. We halted for
a siesta'and went to reconnoiter the route which we must travel in
the afternoon, planning to leave the river now if there were a water
hole nearby, and if not, the next day. Those who went on this
reconnaissance returned late, so we spent the night at this place,
which we called San Felipe .22 - Today four leagues.
August 23
We left the camp of San Felipe (on the Rio de San Pedro), ascended a
hill and along the foot of the Sierra de los Tabehuaches (so-called
because it is inhabited by the Yutas of this name) we traveled four
leagues which, because of the many turns we made would equal two
leagues to the east of San Felipe. We now left the Rio de San Pedro
which rises in a spur of the Sierra de las Grullas, which, beyond
the one they call Sierra de la Plata, continues north. It then runs
northwest and west until it joins the Rio de los Dolores, near the
small range which they call Sierra de la Sal because close to it
there are salt beds where, according to what we were told, the Yutas
who live hereabouts get their salt. The river is medium sized. We
halted for a siesta near a permanent stream that comes down from the
sierra to a plain covered with chamise, toward the southern end of
which there is a valley of good pasturage. In front of it there is a
sort of ledge upon which there are ruins of a small and ancient
pueblo whose houses appear to have been of stone, with which the
Yutas Tabehuaches have made a weak and crude fortification. By now
we again had found good pasturage for the animals, which had been
very scarce from the camp of La Asunción on the Rio de los Dolores
until today, because the country was so scorched and dry that it
appeared not to have rained during this whole summer. In the
afternoon it began to rain, but at the end of a little more than an
hour and a half it ceased and we continued our journey, ascending
the. Sierra de los Tabehuaches by a high hill which was rugged in
places. Having traveled a league to the northeast and another to the
east we were overtaken by a Yuta Tabehuache, who is the first Indian
we have seen in all the distance traveled to here5 since the first
day's march from the pueblo of Abiquiú, when we met two others. In
order to talk at leisure here, we camped near the source of the
stream where we had taken our siesta, naming the campsite La Fuente
de la Guia 23 We gave the Indian something to eat and to smoke, and
afterward through an interpreter we asked him various questions
concerning the land ahead, the rivers, and their courses. We
likewise asked him the whereabouts of the Tabehuaches, Muhuaches,
and Sabuaganas. At first he appeared ignorant of everything, even of
the country in which he lived, but after he had recovered somewhat
from the fear and suspicion with which he talked to us, he said the
Sabuaganas were all in their own country, and that we would soon
encounter them: that the Tabehuaches were wandering dispersed
through this sierra and its vicinity: that all the rivers from the
San Pedro to the San Rafael inclusive, flow into the Dolores which,
in turn, joins the Rio de Navajó. We asked him if he would guide us
to the rancheria of a Sabuagana chief said by our interpreter and
others to be very friendly toward the Spaniards and to know a great
deal about the country. He consented on condition that we should
wait for him until the afternoon of the next day. We agreed to this,
partly so that he might guide us, and partly that he might not
suspect us of anything which might disturb him and the rest. - Today
six leagues,
August 24
Before twelve o'clock the Yuta reached the place where we were
awaiting him, accompanied by his family, two other women and five
children, two at the breast and three from eight to ten years old,
all good looking and very agreeable. They thought we had come to
trade, and therefore they had brought tanned deerskins and other
articles for barter. Among other things, they brought dried berries
of the black manzanita, about which we have already spoken at the
beginning of this diary, and which are very savory and similar to
those of the little grape. We informed them, although they were not
fully convinced, that we did not come for the reason they thought,
and that we did not bring goods to trade. In order that they might
not regard us as explorers whose purpose was to conquer their land
after seeing it, nor impede our progress, and, thinking that from
the Cosninas a report of the journey of the Reverend Father Fray
Francisco Garcés might have spread to the Yutas Payuchis and from
these to the rest, we told them that a Padre, our brother, had come
to Cosnina and Moqui and from the latter place had returned to
Cosnina. Thereupon they were entirely quieted, sympathized with us
in our trouble, and said they had not heard anything about the
Padre. We gave food to all of them, and the wife of our guide
presented us with a little dried venison and two plates of dried
manzanita berries, which we paid for with flour. After midday we
gave the Yuta what he requested for guiding us: that is to say, two
hunting knives and sixteen strings of white glass beads. He gave
these to his wife who with the others went to their ranchos when we
left the Fuente de la Guia with him (whom we now began to call
Atanasio). We traveled along the edge of the sierra for half a
league to the east, another half league to the east-southeast and a
quarter league southeast. Then we turned east, leaving a trail which
runs southeast, which was the one we had been following, and having
traveled three quarters of a league, one southeast, and two east, we
camped in a valley whose descent and ascent though not difficult are
very steep. For this reason we called it La Cañada Honda. In it
there is a large spring of good water, much firewood, and abundant
pasturage for the animals. - Today two leagues.
August 25
We set out from Cañada Honda toward the east and traveled half a
league through dense thickets of dwarf oak, then turned southeast
through more open country, and by the same trail went three and a
half leagues. Then, having traveled another half league to the east,
we started to cross the sierra toward the northeast, and went a
league and a half over good open country without any difficult
slopes. We arrived at the crest which is a hill with very good
pasturage, and of agreeable appearance on account of the brakes and
the beautiful groves of cottonwood which here grow close together.
Here there are three trails, and we took the one which runs to the
northeast, and having traveled in this direction a league and a half
we camped, still on the north slope of the sierra, at a large spring
of good water which rises about six ordinary paces to the east of
the trail and which we called Ojo de Lain. Before it was possible to
prepare any food, of which we were in great need, a heavy shower
fell. - Today seven and one-half leagues.
August 26
From Ojo de Lain we set out toward the northeast and traveled one
league. Here the trail we were following divided, one branch going
east-northeast and the other northeast. We took the latter and
having traveled two and a half leagues to the northeast, we finished
our descent from the sierra and reached the banks and meadows of the
Rio de San Francisco, by the Yutas called Ancapagari (which
according to the interpreter, means Laguna Colorado) because near
its source there is a spring of red water, hot and bad tasting. In
the meadow of this river, which is large and very level, there is a
very wide and well-beaten trail. We traveled downstream a league and
a half to the northwest and camped near a large marsh with very
abundant pasturage which we called La Ciénega de San Francisco.26 -
Today five leagues.
DESCRIPTION OF THE SIERRAS THUS FAR SEEN
The Sierra de la Grulla or de la Plata begins near the campsite
called El Cobre [The Copper] and also near the deserted pueblo. From
its beginning this sierra runs almost northwest, and about seventy
leagues from Santa Fé it forms a point toward the west-southwest,
which is the one they call Sierra de la Plata. From here it runs
north-northeast (turning toward the north just before the Sierra de
los Tabehuaches) to another small range named Sierra del Venado
Alazán, where it ends on the north. At the east end, according to
reports, it joins Sierra del Almagre and Sierra Blanca. About thirty
leagues to the west-southwest by west from the point of Sierra de la
Plata another small range called Sierra del Dátil can be seen. This
Sierra del Dátil is drained on the west side by all the rivers which
we have crossed up to now and those from here forward to the San
Rafael inclusive. The Sierra de los Tabehuaches, which we have just
crossed, runs northwest. It must be about thirty leagues long, and
in the place where we crossed it is eight or ten leagues wide. It
abounds in good pasturage, is very moist, and has good lands for
crops without irrigation. It produces in abundance piñon, spruce (pinabete),
royal pine, dwarf oak, several kinds of wild fruits and, in some
places, flax. In it there are stags, fallow-deer and other animals,
and some fowls of a size and form similar to ordinary domestic hens,
from which they differ in not having combs. Their flesh is very
savory. About twenty leagues to the west of this range is the Sierra
de la Sal, which likewise looks small, and to the west-southwest
about four leagues is seen another range which they call Sierra de
Abajo.
This Rio de San Francisco is medium-sized and a little larger than
the Dolores. It is composed of several small streams which flow down
the western slope of the Sierra de las Grullas and runs to the
northwest. In the place where we saw it there is a meadow about
three leagues long, of good land for crops and with facilities for
irrigation and everything else needed for the establishment of a
good settlement. North of this meadow there is a chain of little
hills and lead-colored knolls crowned with yellow earth.
August 27
We set out from the Sierra de San Francisco downstream toward the
northwest, and after going a short dis tance we met a Yuta called El
Surdo [The Deaf One] with his family. We stopped with him a long
time, and in a lengthy conversation we learned nothing useful except
to have suffered from the heat of the sun, which was very hot all
the time the conversation lasted. We continued on our way along the
meadow, and having traveled two leagues and a half to the northwest
we crossed the river and traveled through the dense and shady grove
of cottonwoods and other trees which grow on its banks. Then we
ascended a small hill, entered a plain without pasturage but with
some small stones, and having traveled downstream altogether three
and a half leagues to the northwest we camped in another meadow of
the same river which we called San Agustin el Grande, 27 and where
on both sides of the river there are abundant pastures and many
black cottonwoods. - Today six leagues. Farther downstream and about
four leagues to the north of this meadow of San Agustin, this river
joins another and larger one which is called by our people Rio de
San Javier and by the Yutas, Rio del Tomichi. In the year '61 Don
Juan Maria de Rivera reached these two rivers below their junction,
having crossed the same Sierra de Los Tabehuaches, on whose crest
according to the description which he gives in his diary, is the
place he called El Purgatorio. The meadow where he halted in order
to ford the river, and in which he says he carved on a second growth
cottonwood a cross, the characters which spell his name, and the
year of his expedition, is also found at the same junction on the
south bank, as we are assured by our interpreter Andrés Muñiz.
Thelatter said that although at that time he had stopped three days'
journey before reaching the river, he again came past here along its
bank in 1775 with Pedro Mora and Gregorio Sandoval who had
accompanied Don Juan Maria on that entire expedition. They said that
they had gone clear to the river then and from it had begun their
return. Those two were the only ones who crossed it, having been
sent by the said Don Juan Maria to look for Yutas on the bank
opposite the meadow where they were camped and from which they
turned back. And so this was the river they then thought was the
great Rio del Tizón.
August 28
We set out toward the north from the meadow of San Agustin, leaving
the Rio de San Francisco and having traveled half a league we
continued three and a half leagues to the north-northeast, over land
which was not stony and arrived at the already mentioned Rio de San
Francisco Javier (commonly called San Javier), otherwise known as
Rio del Tomichi. It is formed by four small rivers that descend from
the northernmost point of the Sierra de la Grulla. It carries as
much water as the Rio del Norte, runs west, and at the western point
of the Sierra del Venado Alazán forms a junction, as we have already
said, with the San Francisco. Its banks along here are very short of
pasturage. In a bend of the river in which we found some pasturage
for the animals, and which we named Santa Monica, we halted today"
with the intention of taking a short siesta and continuing upstream
until we should find some rancherias of Sabuaganas, for yesterday we
learned they were near here and that in them were some of the
Timpanagotzi or Laguna Indians, to whose country we now planned to
go. But, considering the detour which we would have to make in going
up the river in this direction; that the animals would be badly
injured, for they were already lame; and that it would be necessary
for us to consume many supplies in going to their habitations, we
decided to send the interpreter with the guide Atanasio to summon
them and to see if any of them or any of the Lagunas would guide us
for pay as far as he knew the way. They set forth and the rest of us
waited for them at Santa Monica. - Today four leagues. We observed
the latitude of this campsite by the meridian of the sun and found
it to be in 39° 13' 22".
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