Dominguez and
Escalante Journal
Source:
Chavez, A. & Waner,
T. (1995) The Dominguez and Escalante Journal,
University of Utah Press, SLC, UT
Disclaimer:
Educational Material / Non-Commercial
November 7
We went very early to inspect the canyon and the ford, taking along
the two genizaros Felipe and Juan Domingo, so that they might ford
the river on foot since they were good swimmers. In order to lead
the animals down the side of the canyon mentioned it was necessary
to cut steps in a rock with axes for the distance of three varas or
a little less. The rest of the way the animals were able to get
down, although without pack or rider. We went down to the canyon and
having traveled a mile we descended to the river and went along it
downstream about two musket shots sometimes in the water, sometimes
on the bank, until we reached the widest part of its current where
the ford appeared to be. One of the men waded in and found it good
not having to swim at any place. We followed him on horseback a
little lower down, and when half way across, two horses which went
ahead lost their footing and swam a short distance. We waited,
although in some peril, until the first wader returned from the
other side to guide us and then we crossed with ease, the horses on
which we crossed not having to swim at all. We notified the rest of
our companions, who had remained at San Vicente, that with lassoes
and ropes they should let the pack saddles and other effects, down a
not very high cliff to the bend of the ford, and that they should
bring the animals by the route over which we had come. They did so
and about five o'clock in the afternoon they finished crossing the
river, praising God our Lord and firing off a few muskets as a sign
of the great joy which we all felt at having overcome so great a
difficulty and which had cost us so much labor and delay, although
the principal cause of our having suffered so much since we reached
the Parusis was our lack of someone to guide us through such bad
terrain. For through lack of an experienced guide we went by a very
roundabout route, spent many days in such a small area, and suffered
hunger and thirst. And now, after having suffered all this, we
learned the best and most direct route where there were water holes
adjusted to an ordinary day's travel. Most of this we heard of as we
traveled, especially after we left our southerly direction on the
day we set out from San Dónulo or Arroyo del Taray. Because from
that place we might have gone to the large water hole which we found
in the next plain. From here we might conveniently have reached
another water hole which is about three leagues to the northeast of
San Angel. From this latter place we might have reached Santa
Gertrudis. From here we might have gone on three leagues and stopped
in the same arroyo with good water and sufficient pasturage, going
on in the afternoon as far as possible to the northeast, following
the same direction, avoiding the sierra entirely, and arriving next
day at the Rio de Santa Teresa three or four leagues north of San
Juan Capistrano. From this river we could have gone east-southeast
to San Diego and from there to the ford without any special
inconvenience and avoiding many windings, acclivities and bad
stretches. But doubtless God disposed that we should not obtain a
guide, perhaps as a benign punishment for our sins, or perhaps in
order that we might acquire some knowledge of the people who live in
these parts. May His holy will be done in all things and His holy
name glorified.
The ford of the river is very good and here it must be a mile wide,
or a little more. Before reaching this place the Navajó and Dolores
rivers have united, together with all those which we have mentioned
in this diary as entering one or the other. And in no place which we
have seen along here is it possible to establish on the banks any
settlement whatsoever, or even to travel on either bank a good day's
journey either downstream or upstream with the hope that its water
might serve for men and animals, because, aside from the bad
terrain, the river runs in a very deep gorge. All the region nearest
to the ford has very high cliffs and peaks. Eight or ten leagues to
the northeast of the ford there is a high, rounded peak which the
Payuchis, whose country begins here, call Tucané, which means Black
Peak, and it is the only one hereabouts which can be seen close at
hand from the river crossing.
On this eastern bank, at the very ford which we called La Purísima
Concepción de la Virgen Santisima, there is a fair-sized valley of
good pasturage. In it we spent the night and observed its latitude
by the north star, and it is 36° and 55'.
BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE PEOPLE WHOM WE SAW, DEALT WITH, AND LEARNED
OF BY REPORT, FROM THE VALLEY OF SEÑOR SAN JOSÉ TO THE FORD OF THE
RIO GRANDE DE COSNINA, INCLUSIVE.
In this land, which, although we traveled in it one hundred long
leagues counting the turns we made, must be sixty Spanish leagues
from north to south, and forty from east to west, there live a large
number of people, all of pleasing appearance, very friendly, and
extremely timid. For this last reason, and because all whom we saw
spoke the Yuta language in the same way as the western-most Payuchis,
we call all these of whom we are speaking Yutas Cobardes. The
particular names correspond to the country which they inhabit, and
distinguish them as belonging to various provinces or territories,
not as different nations, since all the Yutas known hitherto compose
a single nation, or they might be called a kingdom divided into five
provinces, known by the common name of Yutas: the Yutas Muhuachis,
the Yutas Payuchis, the Tabehuachis, the Sabuaganas, and the Yutas
Cobardes. These last are divided into the Huascaris, who live in the
Valley of Señor San José and its vicinity; the Parusis, who follow
them on the south and southwest, inhabit the banks and vicinity of
the little river of Nuestra Señora del Pilar, and are the only ones
among all these we saw who apply themselves to the planting of
maize; the Yubuincariris, who live almost south of the Parusis and
through here are the nearest to the Rio Grande; the Yutas
Ytimpabichis, who live on the mesas and peaks which are near to and
north of the campsite of Santa Barbara; the Pagampachis, who
likewise live in the bad country of mesas and barren gorges, because
although they have a spacious valley through which the Rio Grande
runs, as we have already said, they are not able to utilize the
waters of this river for irrigation. According to the account given
by the Yubuincariris, to the south-southwest of them downstream
there live other people whom they call Payatammunis. To the west and
west northwest of the Huascaris, we learned also, there live other
people of the same language as themselves. All the rest (and they
are many) who live on this western or northern side, upstream, in
all the sierra which runs down from the Lagunas, and the land which
lies between it and the last northern rivers which we crossed before
they joined, are, according to the reports which we obtained, of
this same sort of Indians, and belong partly to the Yutas Barbones,
partly to the Huascaris, and partly to the Lagunas, depending upon
their proximity to each one of these groups, judging by the greater
similarity with which those nearest speak the general language.
November 8.
We set out from the ford and camp of La Concepción, and ascended
from the bed of the river by a long ridge which was not very
difficult, then turned south-southeast following a well-beaten
trail, and traveled five leagues over sandy land with some rugged
places. Swinging now to the east for a league, we halted near the
last cliff of the range which runs from the river to this place,
naming the campsite San Miguel, in which there was good pasturage
and plentiful rain water. -Today six leagues.
Today we found many tracks of Indians but saw none. Through here
wild sheep live in such abundance that their tracks are like those
of great flocks of domestic sheep. They are larger than the domestic
breed, of the same form, but much swifter. Today we finished the
horse meat we had brought, so we ordered another horse killed.
Tonight we felt much colder than on the other bank.
November 9
We lost the trail and were unable to find a way by which to descend
to a canyon which lay immediately to the southeast of us, or to
cross more than a half league of rocks and ridges which prevented us
from continuing along our route. For this reason we turned
east-northeast, and having traveled two leagues over bad terrain,
the same difficulty obliged us to halt on a mesa without being able
to take a step forward. Near this mesa we found some ranchos of
Yutas Payuchis, neighbors and friends of the Cosninas. We made great
efforts through the Laguna and other companions to induce them to
come near to where we were, but either because they suspected that
we were friends of the Ioquinos, toward whom they are very hostile,
or because they had never seen Spaniards and greatly feared us, we
were unable to induce them to come.
November 10
Very early we two went with the interpreter and the Laguna to their
ranchos, but we were unable even on foot to get to the place where
they were. We sent the two persons mentioned away, we ourselves
remaining on an elevation from which we saw them and were seen by
them, in order that seeing us alone they might approach with greater
willingness and less fear. After the interpreter had urged them for
more than two hours, five of them came, but when they were about to
reach us they turned and fled, and we were unable to stop them. The
interpreter went back to see if they would sell us some provisions
but they replied that they had none. They told him that the Cosninas
lived very near here, but at present were wandering not far away in
the woods, gathering piñon nuts, and that a short distance from here
we would find two roads, one leading to the Cosninas and the other
to the Pueblo of Oraybi, in Moqui. They also gave him signs of the
trail which we had lost, saying that we would have to go back as far
as San Miguel and from there descend to the canyon mentioned. In
this way we spent most of the day, and during the remainder we
returned to the campsite of San Miguel, going half a league closer
to the arroyo or canyon to which formerly we had been unable to
descend. We camped at the beginning of the descent . -Today half a
league southeast.
November 11
Very early the descent was examined and the lost trail was found,
and we continued on our way. We descended to the canyon with great
difficulty because it has some dangerous places and is made up
entirely of cliffs. The Indians have repaired it with loose rocks
and logs and in the last bad place they have a stairway of the same
materials, more than three varas long and two wide. Here two small
streams come together, entering the Rio Grande near the site of San
Carlos. We ascended to the opposite side along a ridge of rocks and
crags which is between the two small streams, making many turns and
passing some perilous benches of rock which could be made passable
only by the use of crowbars. We finished the ascent at nearly
midday, having traveled in the descent and the ascent two leagues to
the eastsoutheast. Here, to the northeast of the trail, there are
two small peaks. From the smaller we swung southeast, and having
traveled three leagues over good terrain, we camped, although
without water, because there was good pasturage for the animals and
plentiful firewood to withstand the severity of the cold which we
suffered, naming the campsite San Proto. - Today five leagues.
November 12
We set out from San Proto to the south-southeast. We traveled now
over an open road and good terrain for three leagues, and right on
the road we found a small spring of good water from which, after we
had broken the ice, all the men and all the animals drank. Judging
from the vestiges, it is a campsite of the Cosninas when they go to
the Payuchis. We continued south along the same road, experiencing
excessive cold, and having traveled four leagues over very good
terrain we left the direct road for Moqui, according to the
instructions of the Payuchis, and followed the more used one of the
Cosninas toward the southsouthwest. Having traveled a league, we
found several uninhabited little houses or ranchos, and indications
that many cattle and horses had pastured here for some time. We
continued over the same road, and after we had traveled a league and
a half to the southwest, night fell and we camped without water,
naming the campsite San Jacinto. Today nine and one-half leagues.
Because of the great cold part of us stopped for a while, the rest
of the companions going forward, to make a fire and massage Don
Bernardo Miera, who was now about to freeze on our hands, for we
feared he could not withstand such extreme cold. For this reason the
rest of the companions arrived at the above-mentioned spring ahead
of us, and before we overtook them they went on without putting
water in the vessels which they carried for this purpose, for which
inadvertence we suffered great thirst tonight.
November 13
We set out from San Jacinto toward the south-southwest along the
same road, over good land with timber and abundant pasturage, and
having gone two leagues we swung to the south one and one-half
leagues, and found in some rocks plenty of water for the men and
almost enough for all the animals. We continued across a sandy plain
two leagues to the south, and half a league to the southeast, and
camped about a league beyond another pool which contained bad water
which we found on the same road. We named the campsite El Espino
because we caught a porcupine here, and we tried its flesh, which is
very appetizing. We were all greatly in need of food for since the
night before we had not tasted anything except a piece of toasted
hide, so the porcupine distributed among so many persons served only
to stimulate the appetite. For this reason we ordered another horse
killed, which we had not done sooner because we expected to find
some food in some of the ranchos of the Cosninas, but we have not
seen even recent vestiges of them. - Today six leagues.
November 14
We set out from El Espino toward the southsoutheast, and having
traveled a little less than a league we found on the road a large
pool of good water, from which all the animals drank to their
satisfaction. We continued southeast, and having gone three-fourths
of a league, we entered a canyon in which four springs of good water
rise. We traveled along it half a league to the southeast and
arrived at a small farm and some ranchos of the Cosninas, which were
very beautiful and well arranged. This farm is irrigated by the four
springs mentioned and two other large ones which rise near it. This
year the Cosninas planted maize, beans, calabashes, water melons and
cantaloupes on it. When we arrived they had already gathered their
harvest, and judging from the refuse or remains which we saw of
everything, it was abundant, especially the beans, for if we had
stopped here we could have gathered half a fanega of them. The farm
was surrounded by peach trees, and, besides several huts made of
branches, there was a little house very well made of stone and mud.
In it were the baskets, jars, and other utensils of these Indians.
Judging from the tracks, they had been absent for several days,
perhaps to seek piñon nuts in the high sierra close by toward the
south-southwest. From the rancho, roads led out in different
directions, and we did not know which we ought to take to go to
Moqui, because now we could not go farther afield to seek the
Cosninas, both because of the lack of provisions as well as on
account of our severe suffering from the winter weather. We took a
road which runs to the southeast and traveled two leagues over very
level terrain, passing some springs of good water, and crossed a
small river which flows from northeast to southwest and carries as
much water as a fair-sized ditch. It has its small grove and
medium-sized meadows but very bad pasturage where we crossed it.
After leaving the river we climbed a mesa on which there was a small
lake, and several pools of rain water which serve as drinking places
and watering holes for the cattle of Moqui, which we now began to
see in large herds. We traveled along the mesa two and one-half
leagues to the east-southeast, ascended a high hill, and because
night was coming on and there was good pasturage for the animals, we
stopped, naming the campsite Cuesta de los Llanos, because from this
place wide plains and fields begin without mesas, trees, or sierras,
but with very good pasturage, that extend to the southeast beyond
Moqui. - Today six and one quarter leagues.
November 15
We left the Cuesta de los Llanos, going eastsoutheast, traveling
along the plains nine leagues without finding water in the whole
day's march, because we did not wish to turn aside to look for it.
We found some in a valley in which there was chamise of the kind
they call chizo, and we camped in the valley, naming it La Cafiada
de los Chizos. - Today nine leagues to the east-southeast.
We had nothing for supper tonight because the horse meat which we
had did not suffice for all. Here there were large herds of cattle,
and all the companions wished to kill a cow or a calf, impatiently
urging us to permit them in this way to relieve the hunger we all
were suffering. Considering that we were now near the pueblo of
Oraybi and that this might stir up some trouble for us with the
Moquinos and defeat our purpose, which was to use again the means of
the evangelical light and meekness to combat their willful blindness
and inveterate obstinacy, we ordered another horse killed, and that
no one should go near the cattle even though they might be strays or
common stock, as the companions assured us they were.
November 16
We set out east-southeast from La Cañada de los Chizos, traveled
three leagues, and near a high mesa swung east-northeast for a
quarter of a league. Here we found a very much used road. Concluding
that it would go to one of the pueblos of Moqui we followed it, and
having traveled over good and entirely level country for three
leagues to the northeast and a little less than two to the north, we
arrived at the mesa of the Pueblo of Oraybi. Ordering the companions
to halt at the foot of the mesa, and that no one except those who
were accompanying us in the ascent should go to the pueblo until we
should instruct them to do so, we ascended without incident and on
entering the pueblo we were surrounded by a great number of Indians,
large and small. In a language which they did not understand we
asked them for the cacique and the chiefs, and when we wished to go
to the house of the cacique, they restrained us, one of them saying
in the Navajó tongue that we must not enter the pueblo. Don Juan
Pedro Cisneros, in the same tongue spiritedly asked if they were not
our friends. Thereupon they quieted down, and an old man led us to
his house and made us welcome in it, assigning us a room in order
that we might pass the night there, and giving us the viands which
they eat. - Today seven leagues.
Tonight the cacique and two old men came to visit us, and after
having given us to understand that they were our friends, they
offered to sell us the provisions we might need, as we had intimated
that we would be grateful for them.
November 17
Very early in the morning they brought for us to the lodging some
baskets or small trays of flour, beef tallow, guavas, and other
kinds of food. We purchased promptly all we could because of the
most necessary things they brought us the least. For lack of an
interpreter we were unable to take up the matter of their
conversion, as was desirable and as we wished to do, but we
explained some things to them, especially to the cacique and to our
host and benefactor. They listened attentively but said nothing
except that they wanted to maintain friendship with the Spaniards.
The cacique told us he had already sent word to the other pueblos in
order that they might offer us hospitality and sell us the
provisions we might need until we reached Zufii. We gave them to
understand that we were very grateful for this favor and the others
we had received at their hands. In the afternoon we set out from
Oraybi for the pueblo of Xongopabi, and having traveled about two
and a quarter leagues to the southeast we arrived after sunset, and
they welcomed us courteously, promptly giving us lodging.'", - Today
two and a quarter leagues to the southeast.
November 18
After the principal Indians of this pueblo and of the others nearby,
Xipaolabi and Mossonganabi, had assembled, and we had told them of
our gratitude for the favors and the warm welcome they had given us,
we preached to them, partly by signs and partly in the Navajó
tongue. They replied that they were unable to answer us because they
did not understand the Castilian tongue or we the Moquino, and that
we should go to Gualpi where there were persons versed in Castilian
and where, talking as much as we might desire with the caciques and
chiefs, we would learn what everybody wished to know. But when we
urged them that if they had understood us they themselves should
reply, they added that the cacique and chief of Oraybi had sent to
tell them they must lodge us, listen to us, and sell us provisions,
cultivating our friendship without treating of or admitting any
other subject, since they wished to be our friends but not
Christians. This over, we gave to the Indian who had lodged us and
extended to us many courtesies a woolen cloak for his wife, thinking
that in this way they would better understand our gratitude and
become more attached to us. But it did not turn out the way we
expected, for although the Indian woman gladly accepted the cloak, a
brother of hers took it away and threw it toward us with a deep
frown. We concluded that his hostility toward this innocent
recompense arose from a suspicion of some evil purpose, contrary to
our honor and profession, so we tried, with the seriousness and
circumspection which the case demanded, to explain to them our true
motive. Then the Indian, wishing to make amends for the affront he
had shown us, although his guilt was not as grave as it appeared,
put us in another predicament even worse than the first, many of us
finding ourselves unable to understand a thing. After causing us to
think seriously and when the crowd had dispersed he pointed out
Father Fray Silvestre and Don Pedro Cisneros and said in Navajó that
he had heard what took place in Oraybi when the fathers Fray
Silvestre and Don Juan Pedro had been there in the summer of the
previous year, and he had been present in Gualpi when the Cosnina
talked to Father Fray Silvestre and told him about the road from
Moqui to the Cosninas, and that now we had come by this same road;
that he would not permit his brothers-in-law and brothers to accept
the cloak, because if they did so their relatives and neighbors
would be angry with them. He said this to satisfy us, but we were
unable to understand clearly the other thing regarding which he
wished to tell us, although it is not very difficult to infer it
from the foregoing events. This afternoon we left for Gualpi, and
having traveled nine leagues, more than four of them to the east, we
arrived at night. Some of our small following remaining at the foot
of the mesa, we ascended with the rest of them. We were welcomed
very joyfully by the Tanos and Gualpis and they lodged us in the
house of the cacique of the Tanos, where we spent the night. - Today
two and one fourth leagues to the east.
After we had rested for a short time, we were told by an apostate
Indian named Pedro, from the pueblo of Galisteo in New Mexico, who
was now old and had great authority in this pueblo of the Tanos at
Moqui, that they were now at fierce war with the Navajó Apaches, who
had killed and captured many of their people. For this reason, he
added, they were hoping that some fathers or Spaniards would come to
these pueblos in order through them to beg from the Sefior Governor
some aid or defense against these enemies. So they had been
especially delighted when they learned that we were coming to visit
them because they hoped we would aid and console them. This appeared
to us to be one of the finest opportunities to induce them to submit
to the Faith and to enter the dominions of His Majesty, God spare
him. So we replied, giving them great hopes and telling them they
must summon the chiefs of the three other pueblos to come to Gualpi,
so that next day all might assemble in this pueblo of Tanos to
discuss this matter at length and seriously. Then Pedro said that if
we wished to take him with us he would like to go to the Villa of
Santa Fé to arrange with the Señor Governor, in the name of the
Moquinos and the Tanos, the alliance which they desired, and to
request the aid they needed. We replied to him that we would take
him gladly, and would use our good offices with the Señor Governor,
in favor of all the Moquinos, but that for this it was necessary
that each one of the six pueblos should send some person of
authority into the presence of his lordship18. They promised that
next day they would assemble in the way suggested and that they
would send for us when they were assembled in a kiva, to talk over
and discuss everything and decide what was best.
November 19
The chiefs of Mossonganabi came, and when they were assembled with
the caciques and chiefs of these pueblos of the mesa of Gualpi in a
kiva of the Tanos, the apostate Pedro led us to it, giving us as an
interpreter another apostate, an Indian of the pueblo of Santa Clara
named Antonio el Cuati, because he speaks and understands the
Castilian language well. He translated our words into the Tegua
language, and Pedro into the Moquino, so that all of us in the
assembly might understand. They related everything they had
discussed before we arrived at the kiva, and said they had agreed
that the apostate Pedro should go with us to the Villa of Santa Fé
in order that in the name of all he might ask the Señor Governor for
aid against the Navajó Apaches, and establish friendship with the
Spaniards, and they begged us to do everything possible in their
behalf. We replied to them that we would take their part in every
way, because we loved them like children, and were very sorry for
their troubles, but that since only God is allpowerful and rules
all, so long as they remained in their infidelity and until they
ceased to offend Him, they would not be able to free themselves from
suffering these troubles. Then we explained to them the severity of
the eternal punishments which, if they did not accept the Christian
religion, they must inevitably suffer in Hell, taking advantage for
greater clarity and force, of the afflictions of which they had just
told us. We told them also that if they would submit, they would
have constant and sure help from the Spanish arms against all the
heathen who might attempt to attack them, as did the Christian
pueblos of New Mexico. This caused them to see at the same time the
uselessness and inconstancy of the friendships and alliances which
they had celebrated many times before with the Yutas and Navajós.
And after having told them everything we thought suitable and
efficacious, we told them that they must make known their decisions,
with the understanding that whether or not it accorded with our
desires, we were firm in our promise to take their ambassadors to
Santa Fé and aid them in every way possible. Three times we urged
them, exhorting them to enter the fold of the Holy Church, impugning
and proving false and insubstantial their arguments for not
accepting the Faith. Regarding the first, they replied that they
knew the governors were sending the fathers to persuade them to
submit to their authority but that they had not and still did not
wish to. Regarding the second, they gave us to understand that,
since there were many more heathen nations than Christian, they
wanted to follow the more numerous party, and that besides this,
they lived in country which was very inconvenient for the service
which, once converted, they would have to render the Spaniards.
When we had overcome the apparent force of each one of these
arguments, finding now nothing to contradict, the men of the
assembly talked a long time, each in turn, beginning with those of
the greatest authority and continuing in the order of their
importance. And although each one spoke individually, he expressed
himself in the form of a dialogue, and concluded his discourse by
asking various questions of the others, who replied by assenting or
denying respectively according to the nature of the questions. In
these discourses they related the traditions of their ancestors and
exhorted that they be observed, concluding that it was better for
them to suffer their present troubles and calamities than to violate
these traditions. So they replied that they wished only our
friendship but by no means to become Christians, because the old men
had told them and counseled them never to subject themselves to the
Spaniards. We tried to make them see the foolish impiety of such
traditions and counsels but without any success whatsoever. Finally
they decided that Pedro should not go to the Villa of Santa Fé, the
reason for which decision he himself told us, saying, "Now they do
not wish that I should go to see the Governor because, since I am a
Christian, they say that he will not let me return to Moqui." He
feared this much more than the others, and so we were unable to get
him to carry out his first intention. The assembly having ended, we
withdrew very sadly to our lodging, realizing that the obstinacy of
these unhappy Indians was invincible. And so we decided to continue
next day to Zuñi before the passes and roads should be closed,
because it was now snowing constantly, for which reason we were
unable to observe the latitude of these pueblos of Moqui.
November 20
In the afternoon we set out from the pueblos of Gualpi, and having
traveled four leagues east by southeast, we camped for the night at
the watering place called El Ojo del Cañutillo or Ojito de Moqui. -
Today four leagues.
November 21
We set out from El Ojo del Cafiutillo to the northeast, and having
traveled three leagues we swung to the east-southeast two, then
going a little more than two additional leagues to the east, we
camped more than half a league before reaching a small watering
place named the Estiladero or Ojito del Peñasco 99 - Today seven
leagues.
November 22
We left the companions with the rest of the animals, which were now
worn out, in order that they might follow slowly to Zuñi, and we
with three of the companions set forth in light order, and having
traveled nine leagues east by southeast, we arrived at the place
called Cumáa. Here we rested a while, and then continued two more
leagues to the east. The animals were now exhausted and we had to
halt. - Today eleven leagues.
November 23
We continued our journey although it snowed all day with troublesome
flurries, and having traveled on the gallop for twelve leagues, we
camped at the place called Kianatuna or Ojo de San José. Tonight we
suffered greatly from the cold. - Today twelve leagues almost all
toward the east.
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